Please understand that the cat is not doing this to make you mad!!!
If this has just started and the cat was using the litterbox without any problems before then this has either an underlying medical problem or it is a psychological problem.
First you should take your cat to the vet and have the cat checked for a Urinary Track Infection. This is most likely the problem and the cat is associating the litterbox with pain caused by the infection. Therefore the cat will go all over the house to find a spot to go potty that does not hurt - which of course won't work.
A course of antibiotics for 10 days will take care of the infection. After the treatment it might be necessary to "retrain" your cat. This is done by gently putting the cat into the litterbox and encouraging him/her by guiding the paw to dig and praising the cat every time after using the litterbox.
If there are no underlying medical conditions, it is important to distinguish whether the cat is marking or urinating. When urinating, a cat squats and releases a large volume of liquid on a horizontal surface. When urine marking, a cat usually stands upright, with his tail erect and quivering, hind legs shifting from side to side spraying urine onto vertical surfaces. A marking cat can occasionally squat and deposit urine on a horizontal surface. Marking is most done by male cats that have not been neutered but there are some female cats that also mark.
Urine marking is considered a normal communication behavior among cats. It's simply one cat's way of notifying (via PEE-MAIL) other cats of his or her territory. Although any cat can exhibit marking behaviors, intact male cats are by far the biggest culprits. Ninety percent of male cats stop urine marking after being neutered.
Inappropriate elimination can also occur because the cat is experiencing stress or anxiety related to other pets, children or recent changes in the household or the litter.
Here are some recommendations:
- Create a safe haven for the cat that is off-limits to other pets or children.
- Provide high perches where the cat can escape from stressors.
- Use a synthetic pheromone product (e.g. Comfort Zone Feliway) which can have a calming effect (it can be purchased at any pet supplies store).
- Provide an enriched environment for the cat (e.g., toys, scratching posts).
- Discourage neighborhood cats from approaching doors and windows.
JUST BE PATIENT AND TRY TO ASSURE YOUR CAT THAT EVERYTHING IS OK. If this sounds a bit weired please understand that animals DO experience anxiety and stress and will react to it in the very limited ways they can.
Creating a Cat-Friendly Litterbox
Try different types of litter:
- Most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented, clumping litter.
- Start with a litter depth of one to two inches and adjust to the cat's preference.
Use the right size and type of box:
- Litterboxes should be 1.5 times the length of the largest cat.
- Provide kittens and older, arthritic cats with boxes that have lower sides.
- Covered boxes may restrict movement and trap odors, so consider offering an uncovered option.
Clean litterboxes frequently:
- Remove feces and urine balls at least once a day.
- Change clumping litter at least once a month and clay litter at least once a week.
- Wash litterboxes with mild dish soap when changing litter.
- Avoid cleansers with ammonia or strong fragrances.
Choose a private but accessible location for the box:
- Do not place litterboxes near noisy appliances.
- Provide at least one litterbox for each floor of the house.
Discourage use of previous elimination sites:
- Thoroughly clean them using an enzymatic cleaner.
- If necessary, block access to area.
- If all else fails, place a litterbox in that location and after a while start moving the litterbox a few inches every other day into the direction you would like the litterbox to end up at.